Zuhair Murad
Artisanal Style combined with a Modern Flair
There were extraordinary sparkles at Zuhair Murad’s show in Paris this year. They rained over dresses in bursts of embroidery, shot upward from tulle shoulder ruffles, shimmered in crystals, and shone from the top of the bride’s tiara. The famous Miyajima Water Fireworks Festival provided endless embellishment possibilities for the brand’s founder and designer, who aimed to capture colors and effects alike.
Zubair Murad was born in Ras Baalbek. Murad moved to Paris, where he obtained his degree in fashion and the story began.
Zubair returned to his native Lebanon to launch his career. By 1995, Murad opened his third head shop in Beirut. In 1999, Murad made his first appearance on the catwalks of Rome with an acclaimed collection that led to his participation in the Italian calendar.
Two boutiques (including showrooms) have been opened; the first in Beirut on Charles Helou Avenue and the second on rue Francois I in Paris. He also has a showroom in Milan on the Via Borgogna.
In Paris earlier this year of course, the results were interpretative, so pyrotechnic enthusiasts shouldn’t be too concerned if the palm, peony, or chrysanthemum configurations on ball gowns and bodices don’t look entirely true to form. But no doubt, the research was fun—even more so because he mentioned that much of the silhouette inspiration came from Dynasty. This was evident from the sweeping skirts in duchesse satin with oversize bow and ruffle accents, which were also meant to evoke the waves around the island where the light show takes place.
If such glitz and volume feel dated today, one need only look to the dresses worn at the inaugural ball. Murad nailed it!! That said, there were ways to buy into the theme in a lesser level: The tank neckline on a duchesse satin dress splashed sparkles print felt sleek and unaffected; the parachute pant shown as both a tuxedo and a beaded blue jumpsuit seduced without the swish. The red envelope dress with its balance between sleeves and slits seems like obvious Academy Awards material. Murad insisted in an interview to the NY Times that he doesn’t design with red carpet season in mind. But of all the possible themes, sparkles might prove particularly tempting for a celebrity nominee. He has dressed many famed celebrities such as Marion Cotillard, Taylor Swift, Carrie Underwood, Ivana Trump, Cheryl Fernandez-Versini, Beyoncé Knowles, Jennifer Lopez, Kellie Pickler, Najwa Karam, Shakira, Katy Perry, Christina Applegate, Vanessa Williams, Ana Ortiz, and many more have been seen wearing his dresses. Miley Cyrus was seen wearing one of his creations at the Academy Awards, and Christina Aguilera and Jennifer Lopez wore his creations at the 2011 Golden Globe Awards. He also designed Miss France Chloé Mortaud’s dress for Miss Universe 2009 and 5 dresses for the final of Miss France.
In 2010, Florence Welch was seen wearing one of his creations during the Brits awards; a silver silk dress with gold and silver beaded designs.
Nina Dobrev, Christina Aguilera, Wanda Sykes and singer Jewel were seen wearing Zubair Murad dresses at the 2010 Emmy Awards. Kerry Washington wore one of his gowns at the 2011 Emmy Awards. Cheryl Cole wore one of his designs on The X Factor. Princess al-Taweel of Saudi Arabia wore his creation when she attended the wedding of Prince William and Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge.
French actress Marion Cotillard wore a floral Zuhair Murad dress from his Fall 2012 collection at the 2013 Critics’ Choice Awards
Zuhair Murad’s gowns have been inescapable on the red carpet since Miley Cyrus wore one to the 2009 Oscars. Recently , he unveiled his new fall collection at couture week. His unapologetically lavish aesthetic is clearly working for some of the most famous women in the world today (prices for couture start at $5,000, not inexpensive). Murad, whose business now employs more than 170 people, routinely dresses everyone from Beyoncé to Blake Lively to Jennifer Lopez, to oohs and aahs from their — and his — adoring fans. Ahead of his couture show, Murad was recently interviewed in his native Lebanon to find out more about his curious ubiquity, who his clients are, and his plans for his first New York store.
You are clearly everywhere right now, but how did you get your start?
When I was very young, a little child, I used to draw all the time, fashion, and cut fabrics and buy fashion magazines. I decided to study fashion and art. At the age of 20, 22, I opened my first atelier in Beirut, my city. If you like something, you can do it with passion, so this is my world and I love my atelier.
Who are your clients?
Especially because I started with the couture, all of my clients are princesses — women who love fashion, who spend, maybe, a lot of money to be unique, to be special, to be different. Especially for a special occasion, especially for celebrities, for rich women all over the world. My client, she’s a woman who likes couture because it’s a very special art, and at the same time she’s classic.
His extensive lines encompass haute couture, ready-to-wear and accessories.
Zuhair Murad plans to expand his fashion line. Plans are underway to include beauty products, perfumes, swimwear and lingerie, as well as furnishings